The postponement of ESPR deadlines: what does this mean for textile brands?

The ecodesign of textile products is at the heart of European concerns, with the planned entry into force of the ESPR regulation (Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation). Recently, however, it was announced that key deadlines had been postponed: publication of the sector-specific delegated acts is now expected by the end of 2026 instead of 2025, and the first provisions are scheduled to come into force in 2029.

‍

Why the postponement?

The delay is mainly due to the technical complexity of the evaluation criteria for textile products, and the lengthy consultations with stakeholders. Initial results from the JRC (Joint Research Centre) show that defining ecodesign criteria specific to textiles is a demanding exercise, especially given the diversity of the products concerned (sportswear, technical textiles, home textiles, etc.).

The JRC has identified the aspects of a product on which it would be relevant to define ecodesign requirements:

• Physical durability: covering physical durability, reliability and reusability
• Maintenance
• Repairability: covering reparability, upgradeability, reconditionability and remanufacturability.
• Recyclability and recycled content
• Environmental impacts, covering environmental footprint, carbon footprint, energy consumption and efficiency, water consumption and efficiency, resource consumption.
• Presence of substances of concern

‍

Current discussions include :

• Measuring physical durability: criteria for resistance to abrasion, tearing, color retention, etc.
• Repairability and mechanisms to facilitate access to repair or replacement tools.
• Integration of criteria for recyclability and recycled content of textiles.

‍

Presentation of the ESPR work schedule

The updated schedule includes the following stages:

• End 2025: Publication of the preparatory study, a key document detailing the technical criteria for textile eco-design.
• Late 2026 / Early 2027: Publication of the sector-specific delegated act, which will transform the recommendations into legal obligations.
• 2029: Implementation of the first regulatory requirements, with a transition period of at least 18 months.

‍

‍

Construction of the ESPR regulation and sectoral delegated acts

European work has begun within the ESPR framework to define ecodesign requirements for textiles, which will be set out in a sector-specific delegated act. These requirements will apply to all companies manufacturing, importing or distributing textiles, and to the products covered by the delegated act. Products that fail to meet the adopted requirements will no longer be allowed to be placed on the market.

‍

This preparatory study is being carried out by the JRC, with the aim of defining the technical criteria to be included in the delegated act. It serves as a basis for identifying specific requirements linked to the sustainability of textile products.

Key stages in the preparatory study

First milestone (March 18-19, 2024 ):

1. Preliminary identification of evaluation criteria: physical durability, reparability, recyclability, substances of concern.
2. Initial stakeholder consultation to refine priorities.

Second milestone (December 2024):

1. A deeper understanding of the technical aspects of textiles.
2. Definition of the first methodologies for assessing criteria such as reparability and recyclability.
3. Discussions on the relevance of the aspects selected and proposal of the first applicable standards.

Third milestone (during 2025):

1. Finalization of evaluation methodologies.
2. Recommendations for implementing the criteria in production lines.
3. Study of the environmental and economic impact of requirements.

Fourth milestone (Late 2025):

1. Publication of the final preparatory study.
2. Inclusion of stakeholder feedback.
3. Details on recycling technologies and the management of substances of concern.

‍

What this means in concrete terms for textile brands

‍

1. More time to anticipate and integrate ecodesign

The postponement of deadlines gives textile brands additional preparation time, representing an opportunity to :

• Rethinking products: integrating sustainability criteria right from the design stage, testing eco-designed prototypes, and experimenting with recycled raw materials.
• Optimize internal processes: evaluate reparability, recycling and unsold stock management within production lines.
• Train internal teams in eco-design.
• Participate in public consultations: stakeholders can take advantage of this time to engage more closely with national and European authorities to make their concerns heard.

‍

4. Preparing for unsold stock management

The ESPR provides for a ban on the destruction of unsold textiles from 2026 for large companies and 2030 for ETIs. Brands must :

• Implement strategies for donating or reselling unsold products.
• Work with partners to recycle unsold inventory.

‍

5. Environmental impact

ESPR will place particular emphasis on reducing the carbon footprint and energy consumption of textiles. This includes optimizing production processes, limiting overproduction and better managing the end-of-life of products.

Brands can integrate these aspects by :

• Reducing waste and adopting more circular business models (reuse, reconditioning).
• Using materials with low environmental impact.